Over the years, I have learned many new photographers and have observed how they use their cameras. I noticed a handful of common mistakes that many people make. Although there is much more to learn about photography, if you can avoid or solve these problems yourself, you will find that your images are much sharper and of better quality.

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1. Do not raise ISO high enough

In general, you were taught that you should always go as low as possible with the ISO value for digital cameras. In fact, the first digital cameras produced horrible sounds with higher ISO values. This has completely changed today. The latest digital cameras can record optimal quality of 800, 1600, 3200 and even 6400 for advanced cameras. The sound is much less noticeable than before, and it is very beautiful.

It changed how we can shoot. While your ISO is still as low as possible when shooting on a handheld while the camera is on a tripod, you often increase the value of your ISO much higher. If I do not deliberately shoot with a very large aperture, for example 1: 2.8, my ISO values ​​are usually 400 for sunlight, 800 for 1600 for shadows and 3200 and 6400 for dusk or night. It is held by hand.

This allows me to use a shorter shutter speed to compensate for camera shake or movement of objects with good depth of field. My pictures are much clearer.

If you do not record in manual mode, it is recommended that you remove the camera from the automatic ISO setting. You never want your camera to select two of the three settings (shutter, aperture and ISO), as it often confuses your images. The camera should only choose one of these three configurations for optimal use.

2. Use too long shutter speed.

To compensate for the camera’s motion, the shutter speed must always be higher than the focal length of the lens. Therefore, if you shoot with a 50mm lens, your camera must be set to 1/50 second (or faster) to ensure that the image is ready.

With a zoom lens, it goes even further into the game, because a 300mm lens requires a shutter speed of 1/300 second, so the picture does not look blurred. In fact, small vibrations are much more noticeable when you extend a small area in the distance. For this reason, I often increase the ISO value when the zoom is far away.

You need to freeze it with fast shutter speed. I prefer at least 1/250 second to freeze people by freezing. You need an even faster shutter speed when it comes to subjects like cars.

3. Do not use exposure compensation (+/-) or proper measurement mode

When using aperture priority mode, exposure compensation is the best friend, especially in difficult light shots. The light meter in your camera is not creative, you want everything to appear in neutral gray. However, this is problematic for images with many dark or light tones. You may want these tones to turn gray for creative reasons, but you may want to be true to the scene. Here is the exposure compensation (+/-) in the game.

For example, in scenes with a lot of snow or a light sky, the camera may be tempted to believe that the picture becomes dark too much so that the white areas become gray. If you take pictures at night or in a dark alley, the camera’s light meter will try to make the dark tones gray so that the image becomes too bright.

Similar problems can also occur when taking pictures in reflections and dark shadows, or when the subject is in backlight. In a similar context, many photographers keep their camera in the wrong measurement mode. There are three main measurement modes. Evaluation measurement, weighted central and point.

The evaluation is visible throughout the scene, the central weight is visible according to the point it focuses on and an area that extends around it. The speed only measures the light where it is directed. Personally, I think evaluation is too broad and Spot is too focused. Therefore, I usually use the central weighted measurement mode.

4. Do not set the focus point correctly

Some photographers focus entirely on the camera. This is a horrible idea because the camera often focuses on the wrong point and destroys destroying your image. You need to control the focus and focus on the most important subject in the picture.

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Likewise, it is common for photographers to get the new 50mm 1: 1 or 1: 1.4 lens and immediately think they have to record everything in the 1: 1.4 format because they can do it. Some situations are good for f / 1.4, but it is important to know how low the depth of field is in this opening.

If you shoot with a very thorough depth of field, the focus must be in perfect fit with the main subject. When you shoot a person and place the focus point on the ear or nose instead of the eyes, the vision becomes clear and the picture becomes confused.

I often prefer to record these portraits with f / 4 instead of f / 1.8 or f / 2.8. There is always a good background with bokeh, but a large part of the person is clear. This also minimizes any troubleshooting errors.

5. Use image stabilization using a tripod.

The image stabilizer on the lens or camera makes the images sharper. It can also produce small vibrations while the camera is quiet, and these vibrations can really relax when you are on a tripod.

Sometimes they present blur. Always turn off the image stabilizer when using a tripod. If you notice that your photos on a tripod are somewhat blurred, this problem and the wind are the most likely sinners.


Here it is. The reason is that if you can learn to overcome and avoid these five common beginner errors, you will be on the right track to get a better picture.

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